Horseshoe Stamp (HSS)

The Horseshoe Stamp (HSS) is the small U-shaped symbol embossed near the standard production stamp inside Hermès bags. Its presence indicates a Hermès Special Order — typically a bi-color combination, contrast hardware, or other personalization requested by the original client. Eligibility for placing an HSS order is reserved for top-tier clients with significant established spending histories at Hermès boutiques.

History

The HSS program in its current form dates to the late 1990s, though earlier Hermès Special Order programs have existed since the 1960s. The horseshoe symbol itself was introduced to give Hermès staff a quick visual marker that the piece deviates from standard production specifications.

How to identify

Look for a small U or horseshoe shape (~2mm) embossed adjacent to the year stamp. Should be sharply defined — soft or smudged horseshoes raise authentication concerns. HSS Birkins typically feature visibly non-standard color combinations (bi-color), unusual hardware (e.g., RGHW), or contrast piping.

Price impact

Premium of 40-80% on resale due to uniqueness and the implicit proof of allocation status. HSS Birkins in particularly desirable configurations (e.g., Rose Sakura with PHW, bi-color Etoupe/Gold) can trade at 100%+ above standard equivalents in the same leather.

Used by: Hermès

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